The Secrets Out...

 A mini 'What's In My Bag'/ on my head/ face: Phone Case, Fifi Lapin @ Iconemesis; Hat, Topshop; Midi Bag, Baia, Lipstick in Saint, Topshop; Lipbalm, Burts Bees; Purse, Baia. 

My favourite thing about buying stuff made in Britain is that it looks well made. It's not a homogenous item of clothing/acc/jewellery reproduced half heartedly by all the high street stores. No matter how worn I have made it. Or how old I now think it is. I still will be complimented and asked where, what, who.

It could be down to my cracking personal style. Or it could be because there is a noticeable difference between crafted products and mass-produced products. Something not immediately obvious, you can't quite put your finger on it, but it's just better than the ones you've seen elsewhere. 

Today, I am lucky enough to share with you the story of Baia from the owner, designer and maker herself, Susy Brown. One of the most striking things about reading back the answers is how passionate, how much she cares and how much that reflects in what she produces. It's refreshing.

I own a Baia bag, a Baia purse and made the boy buy a Baia card holder. You could say I'm a little Baia obsessed. I see amazing things in the future for this fledgling brand. And although delighted Susy agreed to answer my Spotlight Q's for this post; the secret is well and truly out. At least I can say I was an early adopter, right?

Even though, my Baia looks very well loved, it's become so much a part of me. Waiting at bus stops, with my oversized boyf MIB coat, my skinny ripped jeans poking out and my favourite pointy suede booties, it's unmistakably me. Despite it's loved appearance; it's shape, it's simplicity,  it's quality, still garners attention. And I love that every time I'm asked I can proudly say "Baia" to an unknowing expression. They'll soon become as obsessed as I am. 

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WHAT LED YOU TO START BAIA?
I studied Fashion at Manchester Met, and graduated knowing that I loved design, but with no real idea of what I would do. There wasn't that much relevant work available in the North of England, but I managed to get a 6 month placement with a company based in the Northern Quarter in Manchester (A Few Fine Things, sadly no longer open), who made bespoke bags. I didn't expect to love it as much as I did, but I ended up staying for a year and really learned the trade. Eventually I decided I wanted to do things my own way, and that was that really. Baia was born!

CUSTOMISATION IS A UNIQUE CONCEPT, DOES THIS MAKE BAIA MORE DESIRABLE?

I would hope so! I learnt a lot from working at A Few Fine Things. They really did start from scratch, and it wasn't unusual for a look of fear to descend when a customer realised how many decisions they had to make.
I wanted to harness the idea of choice, and an individual end result, but also not to alienate the customer who was happy with a black bag and an exciting lining colour. I think people are attracted to the idea of an item made just for them, and it continues to surprise me, even at the end of a season, the combinations that people choose. It's really not unusual to make a one off piece. 

ARE YOU PROUD TO MANUFACTURE IN BRITAIN?
There's just no way that we could make to order outside of Britain. And Baia was born from me wanting to create, and use the skills I had to make beautiful things. It's literally a hands on process every single day.
I'm very proud of being a British brand, and everything that means. Our leather comes from British suppliers, metal plates are made in Sheffield, cotton lining from Manchester, and metal work from Cheshire. I made these choices, not because they're British, but because they are the best.
I think there is a real integrity to supporting British manufacturing, big and small. 

HOW DO YOU START THE DESIGN PROCESS? WHAT'S ON YOUR MOODBOARD?
That's a really tough question. For me designing a bag is dual processes - it has to look great, but it also has to be successfully functional. It's as much a construction plan as it is a aesthetic decision. Sometimes it'll be a colour or shape that catches my eye, others a silhouette or texture. Or simply theres a gap in the collection that needs filling. At the moment I'm working on AW15, and my Pinterest board is full of natural textures, art deco architecture, a lot of monochrome and abstract paintings. It sounds really serious, but it isn't. I'm quite pragmatic when it comes to the design process.
I tend to get the design equivalent of a song stuck in my head - some of my best designs have been ideas that won't go away, have niggled at my brain and evolved over a period of time

WHAT'S NEXT?
I've always got plans! Baia was 3 in January, and I'm amazed by how much has happened in that time. Having said that, there's so much I want for Baia. There's a lot in the pipeline for the next year. I'm hoping we can find some wonderful stockists, and plenty more. But if I told you that I'd have to kill you!

Dalmation Drawstring, What Olivia Did Midi, Rucksack, Bucket, Leopard Mini, all Baia.

WHAT'S BEEN THE HIGHLIGHT OF RUNNING BAIA?
The summer of 2014 was huge for Baia. We were featured in the Times Magazine, which was a bit of a pinch me moment. The response was incredible, and we moved in to our studio a couple of months later. Baia was started in the spare room, so to have a real light airy workspace felt like a real mile stone. 

WHO IS THE BAIA CUSTOMER?
Another tough question! I don't think there is a specific profile customer for Baia. The made to order nature of the what we do, means that we have customers that span a huge age range. We have made bags that are used for school books, bags for business women, and my grandma has several Baia items (though I think she's a little biased!). I think a handbag in general is an accessible item. I like that inclusive approach. 

THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY?
I have a real soft spot for the Mini, and the Drawstring. They're the ones that I use on a regular basis. Ironically my family and friends have more of the current styles and colours than I do, typically I'm the last in line!
I loved the pony skin from AW14, because it had such a luxurious feel, and similarly the croc. And I'm really looking forward to our first printed leather in our new SS15 collection, which was illustrated by the wonderful Ella Masters. I'm really proud of it. 

WHAT ARE YOU CURRENTLY LOOKING FORWARD TO?
I'm looking forward to not needing to wear a thermal vest, two pairs of socks, and several jumpers! I adore a good jumper, but I've had enough of the cold this year. Baia HQ is in an old mill and it's been pretty bloody nippy the last few months. I'm dreaming of blue skies and summer dresses. Though having said that I will miss a polo neck! 

INSERT SOMETHING INSPIRATIONAL THAT KEEPS YOU MOTIVATED?
I love a good inspirational quote! I post at least one a week on instagram. I particularly like 'Opportunity is missed by people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.' - Thomas Eddison. Working your guts out is pretty much the key to everything!
____

Thanks Susy!

Keep your eyes peeled for Baia's next collection for SS15 launching very soon.

(that printed leather tho...)

Follow Baia on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook for tempting sneak peeks and bag inspo galore!

Until then, snap up the last of the current AW14 line here: http://baiabags.co.uk/

Andrea xx

IS BUYING BRITISH ETHICAL?

Everything I'm wearing (ankles up) is High-Street bought 'Made in Britain'. But how ethically was it produced?

It's a question I have been debating for quite some time. And I'd really love you to share your thoughts too.

This post has mainly been spurred on by a recent conversation I had with a MIB designer. I feel quite a lot more passionately about the ethics of clothes than the place of manufacture. Don't get me wrong, but the reason I started buying British and then blogging about it was more about economics of the state of our country, not because of ethics surrounding manufacture. But since I started this 'journey' it's become appallingly apparent that MIB doesn't equal ETHICAL. Something I probably assumed was a given. In fact I even said fairly recently:

"I know how much minimum wage amounts to. I know we have strict health and safety legislation. I know the brands I'm buying from. To some extent I even know some of the factories and studios and people making the garments and products. There is traceable transparency in what I buy made in Britain."   

- Online Descriptions

But as a Made in Britain blogger how can I ensure that everything I feature is made in this way? The majority of things I have bought with MIB in the label have been from small brands, the kind that only have a couple of employees, the type that I know are so small they don't have a marketing department sending their tweets, it's actually them in their day-to-day life. Yet I often challenge myself to find entire outfits 'Made In Britain'. Googling "made in Britain xxxxx" or resorting to High-Street faves, but should I be including everyone just because they say they're made in Britain, or should I just start featuring the brands I have the confidence that they are doing what they are saying? I've bought a fair few things (online I must say) which have been proudly labelled as Made in Britain, only to then discover it isn't what it said it was when I bought it.

British-made is hugely desirable in the wider world. It means something to people. But I don't get the impression it really means a lot to Brits. Is it sustainable to manufacture here for example if Brits don't care and the majority of your client base isn't even EU? Short answer - not really.

I hoped our law would govern that if something says it's made here, it's because it's actually MADE here. But it's not the case. It happens time and time again. Yes, by law you can get something made else where and then 'finish' the item here and state it provence to be made in UK. So does this give brands the right to cut corners, finish something off and then lay full claim it was made here - only then to ship it out again? How would anyone know? It en vogue to celebrate the provence of something. SO hip. SO cool. But how can brands be proud of a lie? I've read a lot on the subject. From newspapers, forums and other bloggers. And you can't be blind to what people are saying.

Then theres the ethical or sustainable issue of the raw materials, where are they made, how can you be assured that the amazing sequinned dress is ethical? I can probably go out on a un-researched limb and say sequinned/embroidery fabrics are not made in the UK. More likely India as it suits their skill set. So if something has some seams which were sewn here... does it make that dress ethically made in the UK or more likely (I hope) ethically made in India? What about the zip, the thread, the buttons, the lining, the facing? Should we be considering the time it took to make the components part of the manufacturing process and therefore the provenance of the garment?

Finally, my last thought goes to the well paid, well treated workers in the UK. All those fashion students I studied along side who delight at their basic expenses paid 3 month internship in a design studio, only to find out there is no job at the end of the tunnel. Repeat cycle. I know my Uni did a lot to ensure no internship was offered without pay. But it still happens. And then theres apprenticeships. A company I used to work for offered apprenticeships. And whilst we agreed and wanted to pay minimum wage. Actually, the "minimum wage" subsidised by the govt for on the job training is half that. And there was no obligation to pay anymore than that. Is that ethical? Is that fair?

I'm not claiming this to be a well researched, well thought out blog post. But it's cumulative thoughts which have been going around my head for the last few weeks. And whilst I was keen to just think it and not say it, actually, yes it's better to say it. If you're interested in more of what I'm alluding to - I'm sure I can put the time to gather my sources and discover some more reputable sources and actually try and justify my thoughts. But what do you think? Is buying British inherently ethical or sustainable?

Andrea x

Emma Cornes

As my blog reaches new corners of the internet, I am regularly introduced to new British made goods. And I love discovering all the great and the good that our little country creates and makes. One such corner I reached was that of Emma Cornes, a bag manufacturer who not only makes bags in Britain but also using fabrics and materials that are made here too. 

Emma Cornes, bags are practical and stylish. Using beautiful tweeds milled in Scotland for added authenticity. 

I asked Emma to answer a few questions to get to know a little more about her burgeoning brand.

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HOW AND WHEN DID EMMA CORNES START? 

Emma Cornes started almost two years ago today at our dining room table. I could never find the bag I wanted and I loved the cloths woven in the Scottish valley I grew up in. I thought I’d have a go at combining these two things. First I had to teach myself to sew.

HOW DID YOU DECIDE TO MANUFACTURE IN THE UK?

It was never really a decision to make – I’d never considered having my bags made anywhere else. That’s not just for sentimental reason. I genuinely believe Britain is the best place to get my bags made from a quality and speed of manufacture point of view.

WHAT IS THE GREATEST CHALLENGE YOU FACE RUNNING YOUR OWN BUSINESS?

Having to do everything. At least I no longer have to make all the bags myself – I was starting to go grey very quickly. But at the same time it’s the variety that I love.

WHAT GOES INTO YOUR DESIGN PROCESS?

We’re only small so we can be pretty flexible – if I have an idea I draw it, then try to make it. 

WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE FROM YOUR COLLECTION?

I’m currently using a Special Edition Dashing Tweeds Hopper. I like cross-body bags. And this one’s small enough that I don’t accumulate too much rubbish inside it.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE EMMA CORNES?

We make simple, classic bags from heritage fabrics, but we like to keep it fun.

WHO IS YOUR CUSTOMER?

I guess they’re like me – a bit of a grown-up tomboy. Someone who has loads of interests, but never has time to shop for the perfect bag. They value nice things, but like me they’d much rather be out exploring a hill than the high street.

WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO FOR AUTUMN?

I can’t wait to get started with designing my Spring/Summer 2015 collection. As the nights draw in I get to think about snowdrops and daffodils.

WHAT'S YOUR STANDOUT HIGHLIGHT?

There’s been a few, but a few stand out:

• Launching this year’s collection at the County Living Spring Fair. I only finalised the collection a month before the event then we had to make all our stock in a month. We did it (only just). We were so pleased when they sold so well – people loved them.
• Winning the My County Business Awards in the Fashion and Beauty category – we’ve won mentoring from Helen Barbour, Vice Chairman of Barbour. We can’t wait to get started with her.
• Finding a great workshop in the Midlands who can help us make out bags. When I collected the first batch of bags the sewed for me I was just so pleased – I’m the only one who can tell the difference between the ones they’ve made and I made.

INSERT SOMETHING INSPIRATIONAL...

I don’t normally go in for motivational quotes, but I do try to stick to the mantra of ‘do one thing well’. That’s why we stick with bags and bags only.

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Thank you so much Emma for taking the time to answer my questions. If like Emma, you would like to be featured on The Mibber then please do get in touch.

You can shop Emma Cornes Bags online at: www.emmacornes.co.uk. Don't forget to follow on Facebook or Twitter to keep up to date with all the latest ECB news!

Andrea x

Stella & Alf

Top, Stella & Alf.

Way back when, when I first started Mibbing, when 'The Mibber' didn't exist in it's current form but that of  'What She Saw'. I discovered Stella & Alf. It was in the olden days, I like to think back to the early days and remind myself of how hard it used to be to discover the good MIB, the REALLY good MIB (ok, so it was probably just over a year ago - I may be exageratttttting). 

And that it was. I was instantly smitten with their aesthetic. The kind of effortless simplicity which is often reserved for super hip tumblr posts. Timeless and stylish. And since, the introduction of The Twenty, has added another string to their bow. If they couldn't get any better they have an ethos that makes guilt-free shopping possible. 

I asked Co-Founder, Paris, to answer a few question to help us to get to know Stella & Alf a little more. And tease us about upcoming pieces!

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WHAT LED YOU TO START STELLA & ALF?

Well both my parents are architects, I think just made it seem really natural for me to design, and has definitely influenced the type of brand I wanted to create. I studied Fashion Design at The University of Westminster, and throughout my studies and various internships, I found that I was always happiest in the design studio creating simple pieces, always with a focus on longevity and provenance.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO MANUFACTURE IN BRITAIN?

 I was always drawn to brands who were very open about the creative process, and who gave a clear insight into how they operated. We are a teenie-tiny brand and whilst this meant it was a natural way to start up (to start very small, close to home, and do everything in-house) I very quickly became really interested in supporting British made products, and this has become integral to what Stella+Alf does.

WHAT INSPIRES YOUR DESIGNS?

 I find this question really tricky, I think as a designer, much of what you create is the result of a culmination of so many experiences and influences. Having said that, much of what I design is based on feedback from our customers, and I absolutely LOVE Pinterest for keeping inspiring images all in one place.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT TO DATE?

 Launching The Twenty, I get a buzz every time we launch a new piece, the reaction is always fresh and inspiring.

YOU DESCRIBE YOURSELF AS HONEST DESIGNS, TELL ME A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT YOUR ETHOS AND SUSTAINABLE CREDENTIALS?

 I mulled over the word "honest" for a long time. For me it communicates not only the simplicity in terms of the design of our pieces, but also indicates how transparently our products are made- like I said, pretty much every process is carried out in our little studio in Lincolnshire, and that is so crucial to what I feel S+A should be. 

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE STELLA & ALF?

Our three key principles say it all- Honest Design, Beautiful Fabrics, Made in Britain.

WHO IS THE S+A CUSTOMER?

When I design a product, I imagine how my Mum, Grandma and little sisters would wear the same piece respectively, if it's relevant to them all, that's how I know a garment embodies what I'm trying to achieve.

WHERE DO YOU SEE S+A IN FIVE YEARS?

Hopefully doing more of the same- promoting British-made,small scale, handmade products, and meeting some great people on the way.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE ITEM? PAST OR PRESENT.

Can I say future? I'm so excited for our new stripes to be released, and we have some gorgeous snuggly knits for winter.

I LOVE HOW YOUR "The Twenty" COLLECTION HAS MADE STYLISH AND SUSTAINABLE MIB FASHION ACCESSIBLE, WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CREATE IT?
ANY SNEAK PEEKS AT THE NEXT ITEM?

The Twenty is really about making British-made fashion accessible, whilst also maintaining the luxury- gorgeous fabrics, and only twenty of each piece made. Next up - lots of stripes, some gorgeous textures for winter, and some branching out into new territory (ominous I know, but top secret!)

INSERT SOMETHING INSPIRING:

It's always the S+A story, the reason behind the name-

Alf was a trawler man from Lincolnshire. Stella lived on his street.

They married on the 1st November 1958.

They had children. Nieces, nephews, grandchildren.

A ginormous dog. 

They worked hard, laughed harder.

Held hands, hugged big, shared sweets, smiled lots.

They were part of a generation who didn’t just wear clothes once, for one season, simply because they were in fashion.

Their clothes were selected and saved for.

Worn, repaired and recycled. Grafted in, worked in.

Cherished, loved, laughed in, lived in.

Paid for in units of time well spent.

They kept their feet on the ground and their imaginations in the clouds.

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Shop Stella & Alf online at: http://www.stellaandalf.com/ and be sure to follow them on Twitter to find out when the next The Twenty is released!

Andrea x

Online Descriptions.

I keep having the same conversations. OVER. AND OVER. 

So I felt compelled to write a slightly more chatty post. 

I recently read this on the Business of Fashion so maybe this spurred it. Or maybe it was the difficulty a number or friends and family had with buying me gifts for my recent birthday which has had me repeatedly have this conversation. Whatever it is, we all need to be talking about it more and making it happen. Forcing change.

Bless the friends and family, they tried, even picking out products I had linked in old posts on The Mibber, which turned out to be made in China. It's okay if you've got so big you've had to outsource to cope with demand. It's OK. But when you claim to manufactured in the UK for X number of years and you celebrate British craftsmanship. It beyond frustrates me. Equally recently, I had a blunder with a dress I had bought which had stated it was MIB in the description and when I received it was actually made in Romania.

What frustrates me the most is how the majority of garments sold in the UK, state their provenance in the care label. And so I struggle to understand WHY if this information is available on the garment WHY it can't be included in the garments online description. Of course no manufacturer/brand selling in the UK is legally obligated to state this information. But I believe if they feel obliged to include it in the care label, they should include it in the online description. 

The "MIB movement" is growing. More people care about where stuff comes from. And to those that do care, at least they can make a slightly more informed decision. Would someone who really only cared about the latest look honestly question whether to buy a garment made in Bangladesh, probably not. So whats the harm about being transparent about where things are made. I'm not trying to say brands are trying to hide this information, or that they have something to hide, maybe they unanimously decided at the start of the internet - people didn't care enough. But now I feel like enough people really do care.

Foreign factories aren't inherently bad, one disaster taints the whole country the backbone of their economy, and whilst there are very dark and murky areas of fashion manufacture still, a lot of brands are doing a lot to bring up the quality of the factories in these 'bad' countries of origins. So they should be shouting and be promoting this. Some COOs are more technologically advanced, cater to more specific skill sets, it's not about reshoring every industry. It's not about boycotting. It's about more consumers being more open to education. Some manufacturers are better than others at producing higher quality of goods, treating their staff fairly, creating safe working environments. Why shouldn't we, as consumers demand the best in all of these issues at a fair and honest price regardless of where it was made? It shouldn't be assumed that something made in Y means it was made in horrid conditions. Is this what brands are afraid of? A retaliation of poor assumptions? 

Whilst I don't buy British because of manufacturing conditions - it is obviously becoming increasingly a contributing factor to my decision making process. Instead I buy British based on the economy, supporting the small factories and brands trying to do it here. I know how much minimum wage amounts to. I know we have strict health and safety legislation. I know the brands I'm buying from. To some extent I even know some of the factories and studios and people making the garments and products. There is traceable transparency in what I buy made in Britain. And since I started MIBing this had become very important to me.

I can't avoid online shopping with my niche of shopping. The high-street, in particular my high-street, is yet to recover from the recession, there are barely any indies in my local town. And that is why I so appreciate the smaller brands proud of what and where they make. I just think it's time we call about the big ones. I'm not asking for Honest By type transparency, not at all. Although extremely informative and even interesting to discover the extent they are willing divulge their manufacturing process. All I ask, is that if you make it, anywhere, you say you made it there. All the information on the care label should be shared in an online description. 

There are big brands out there that are stating which things are 'Made in Britain' but I'm sure this is just to emphasis their own good PR. Even more brands are 'backing British'. But equally there are more big brands which don't say anything at all. I think it would be better practice to just say where everything is made. And whilst I'm not totally naive to believe that product online labelling will change all the woes of manufacture - it's a bloody big step in the right direction. Maybe even the first ripple.

What do you think about online descriptions? Can it really be as simple as if it's on the garment: it's in the description box?

I'd love to know your thoughts. And these are just mine!

Andrea x

Happy Fashion Revolution Day

Today, 24th April 2014, is a year since the Rana Plaza factory collapsed in Bangladesh. This day will hence forth be marked as Fashion Revolution Day, calling out brands and asking: Who Made Your Clothes?

The manufacturing industry is a murky one. Whilst I do agree that totally boycotting foreign made fashion does not help the workers. I do believe that promoting slow fashion, investing in your clothes to last and (obviously) promoting the makers, doers and manufacturers based in the UK is very important to highlight.

 Since I started consciously buying British fashion it has forced me to investigate the label. For everything in my wardrobe, I know exactly where it has been made and although not everything I have bought is MIB since I started, I do know exactly where something is made before I buy the garment. There seems to be a blind ignorance to where and how clothes, particularly fast-fashion, are made. Ironically, for most parts, the information is on the clothing label. Whilst even clothes labelling is a bit of a murky subject too, by becoming more aware, it shines a light on the major issues surrounding clothing manufacture.

 Fashion and clothing should be enjoyed. We should be able to wear guilt-free fashion, knowing everyone is getting a fair deal and know what we're buying. What many regard as frivolous, is a livelihood for millions across the globe and what we need is more transparency, clearer laws and trading regulations and international standards to ensure we never see another disaster like Rana Plaza. The bottom line is that fast-fashion is wholly unsustainable. We do not have the environmental, human or ecological resources to sustain this type of consumerism. I hope that Fashion Revolution Day does grow, engage with more people on the subject and eventually, educates everyone on the issues of manufacture.

Today, Fashion Revolution have asked people to support the cause by wearing their clothes inside out, showcasing the labels and encouraging the conversation. You can follow the developments on Twitter and with #insideout. Why not ask who made your clothes?

Andrea x

MIB

Buying british has consumed my life. MIB is what I call it, Made In Britain. While I can still see the beauty of non-mib, for me, it's not worth my time or money. It was a question of basic economics in 2012 which lead me down this path. I have discovered a huge following of this mindset and it excites me.

Every time I discover a new (or old) brand manufacturing in the UK, I get excited, create my wishlist and obsess over it's possibilities. While I hugely celebrate British manufacture, I try not to too heavily preach about my beliefs, it's everyone's own personal choice. When I started it was a challenge, could I do it? But achieving it has made me question why I would ever go back. I never have. 

There are exceptions, of course, if the brand isn't British, it's unlikely they'll manufacture here. So Zara for instance, is Spanish, if they manufacture in Spain, I won't question buying it if I like it, might as well support all home manufacture. And shoes, we have a great manufacturing heritage, but other than Juju Jellies, they're all out of price range, I can't afford bespoke made to measure, luxury materials. As much as I want to. So I buy 'local', made in Spain or Italy, it doesn't bruise my conscious too much, whether that's an actual valid argument or ethical or infringes on my beliefs, is another question, one I'm yet to explore, I still need to pay bills more than I need shoes. But at least I am fully aware of the provenance of all the item's I buy. 

And then there's second hand or making it myself. I'm a average sewer, although I long to be as accomplished as Elisalex of ByHand. I collect fabrics and patterns for projects and never do them. Something to aspire to change. And charity shops, I've worked in one, I have no qualms with buying someone else clothes, once you've put them in the wash they're like new. Fashion is cyclical, if I want fast fashion, I seek out the original not the imitation!

I have ethics, I don't believe anyone or thing should suffer for the sake of my own materialistic desire. That being said, I am no vegetarian nor do I avoid leather. But buying British (or local) assures me that UK/EU law governs the manufacture and welfare enough for me not to regret buying.

Actually that's a bit preachy...

Andrea x

Made in Britain: Part two.

It’s been 2 months since I originally wrote about Made in Britain fashion. Since, I have become completely obsessed with it. I’ve still only bought British clothes, well apart from one mishap involving something needed for an interview, and I’ve even got loved ones around me hooked on checking labels. I think it’s about time a bit more noise is made about manufacture in the UK. It’s become even more important to the economy and I really think it could kick start an awesome recovery. This recession is getting a little bit boring now.

10 reasons to buy British

Genuinely FAST fashion.

Ok, I’m not a fan of throw away fashion at all, but since falling for MIB clothes I’ve noticed if something sells out – it’s a matter of weeks before it’s restocked. Orders from overseas take months to fulfil. Orders from home – weeks. It just makes sense – if you love something and it sells out, it’s often over to eBay to find it because it’s not in a retailers best interests to re-order something which will be out of fashion by the time the order hits shelves. Where as if demand is high – they can be assured it’s worth restocking MIB clothing.

It’s not expensive.

If you want a Cambridge Satchel it is going to set you back £100 – but it’s worth it. It’s high quality and well made product and if you went to Zara you’d be buying something which cost a fraction of the retailing price to produce and probably spending near enough £70 on a replica – who’s really losing out here? Certainly isn’t the Brand –they are raking in the profits. I’ve bought dresses, jumpers, skirts, tee’s and none of these items have retailed above £30. How many people can say they spend that much less on clothes than me?

Staples.

There has been some items which I covert which are trend lead but actually the majority of items I’ve bought have been superb staples. Well made gorgeous classic shapes and fabrics. The throw on and go with anything kind of staple. I’m not one for Basic’s shopping – I tend to completely justify spending £40+ on a top that’s made of intricate lace and Made in China. Then squirm when my basic’s basket goes above £30 – silly eh! But the beauty of High Street retail is that to produce a range of clothes which come in at their usual price point but made in Britain means that design has to be a little more innovative. Rid of hideous over embellishment, and it’s back to basics, excellent cuts and the simplicity of the design of the garment shine because of this.

It’s on your High Street – waiting for you!

You don’t need to scour the internet, or research heavily into the market to find these gems, you just need to open your eyes and change the way you shop. It can be hard when you see an item which is lovely and you bypass it because you’re busy hunting out the MIB label. But it’s worth it when you think just how much that item means. I can guarantee at this moment in time there is a fashion garment hanging on the rails of your local high street which is Made in Britain. And you should proudly go forth and purchase it. High demand shows there is a market and desire to buy British. Therefore increasing British production. Don’t be afraid to look at the labels of what you’re buying. You do it in Sainsbury’s when you’re counting calories or salt – that’s why they started putting wheels on the packaging – see what you’re buying before committing, how to care for it, what it’s made of, where it’s made all this info is free for you see before you purchase – so have a look.  

Heirlooms.

The UK is swamped in heritage. If ever there is a reason to buy British and save and splurge – then it’s a high quality, beautifully crafted and timeless items. Now I’m talking your mulberry bags, churches brogues and Barbour jackets of the world. They’re expensive at first, yes, but cost per wear, the quality – will last a life time, become heirlooms and last the distance!

The British Fashion industry is directly worth £21bn to the UK economy.

We barely manufacture here, we outsource, and we call it British. If British brands, big and small acted more responsibly started to consider long term benefits of home-grown manufacture and were confident to make the move to home manufacture – imagine how much the industry would be worth to the UK economy. More jobs, more artisan skills, unique high quality and desirable products. And most importantly more money flooding into the economy. It’s ludicrous to thinks anyone is even stalling when it comes to this. The industry is worth so much already and with the increase in manufacture here there will be a direct knock on effect. Demand for jobs; for skills; for talent. This is something we already sell abroad, it’s time we started producing the goods to back it up.

Reputation.

Britain still has a renowned reputation for quality products, yet the skills are dying out and not being passed down through generations. Globally our homemade products are desirable and a sign of wealth and luxury. There is a culture of intellectual property in the country at the moment, you’re not a success unless you’re talking about stuff or selling stuff, unless you’ve got a investable idea, you’ve got a degree, you’re manager to a service, designing something virtual and creating something which – in reality doesn’t physically exist. 

What happened to doing stuff and doing it well? Making stuff, building stuff using your hands and being proud of producing high quality stuff, trial and error, not getting it right first time, learning, inspiring developing skills. Artisan skills. You really don’t need to be artistic in order to sew clothes, to build stuff and make stuff. Yet we’re all dying to be creative’s. Why? Surely creativity isn’t a state of mind but is actually the physical production of a creative idea? Being creative, to me is getting hand on, trying stuff out. There’s nothing theoretical about it, it’s about the end product and achieving that.

Intellectual property, sure it does exist, but all the Mickey Mouse degrees in the world (and yes, to some extend I am part of this) are producing an employment market which is over saturated, everyone is selling an idea, not a physical product. We all have ‘transferrable skills’, we need to be thinkers, analytical, problem solvers, strategists. These are desirable skills in the employment market.Everyone is being fed this idea, told they must further their education to get on in life. But what’s wrong with having a garment manufacturing degree? A search on UCAS shows just two courses which fall under garment manufacture in the whole of the UK. Neither of these are specialist. What’s wrong with saying I want to make clothes on your CV. Seems a bit taboo almost – is it anyone’s aspiration to do this? Why not? It’s an amazing talent. To put it bluntly we need to cut the fat. Encourage those 99 who simply can’t match up to 1 other applicants per job to consider another route, another option. Otherwise we’re going to turn into a country of drones all sitting behind desks and feasting on cakes and not getting much done. Frustrated because we haven’t ‘made it’. If you want to make it in the fashion industry, why not start making fashion happen? How about doing something, being proud because the next time you go shopping you see something you’ve made/manufactured hanging in rails and Grazia picking it up as the must have item of the week. Won’t that fill you with pride and achievement? We need to lose this culture of making an individual name for ourselves, being famous for no reason.

Responsible and SUSTAINABLE.

By manufacturing here – we can start responsibly sourcing too – we can be assured that the raw products we are using can be ethical, sustainable and offer clarity of the supply chain. As well as peace of mind that the working conditions are of a high standard that people are being paid fairly and that health and safety in the workplace is a high priority. None of this H&S gone mad, it’ll actually have a point! Imagine that! We can ensure that factories have an excellent environmental impact and that corporate social responsibility is of high priority. Regenerating towns, income, economy. Fashion is a constant. There will always be demand and there will always be orders as a result. It’s not a dying industry by any way shape or form.

Designers do it.

Mary Katrantzou does it. Peter Pilotto does it. JW Anderson does it. Mulberry does it. Paul Smith does it. Victoria Beckham even does it. In fact so many British young and heritage designers do it with much higher overheads, price points, slimmer profit margins and strict quality control – it really is any wonder why the big brands aren't doing it too!

Change is a foot.

Seriously you’d be surprised how many brands are engaging in British manufacture and if we all go out and buy this stuff –  not only will other places take note – but these brands will also listen and rise to demand. Philip Green, Arcadia boss, announced yesterday that they currently use 47 different British factories which is a 20% increase on last year. John Lewis, ASOS, Matalan, Asda, River Island, Jaeger, Topshop (and the rest of Arcadia of course!).. the list goes on.. but also there is a bubbling industry of smaller designers/brands, dead set on producing at home. And it’s fantastic. We need to buy British and support our own. The bottom line is – we’re looking after and investing in our nations future. Our greatest achievements as a nation are vast and wide. One thing is for sure – being British is being curious – we were a nation of doers – and we need to carry on our nature of doing. Often our perception of our little nation is twee, old and overly polite. But if 77-year-old Beatrice can be enlisted by Mulberry to hand knit one of their new season, £995, scarves – don’t you think we’re going about this all wrong?

Let’s get inspired by Beatrice, hone our skills and put the Great and United back into our country. So I’m asking anyone who reads this - to share this – maybe not in my words but in your own. Agree to start changing the way you shop being a more conscientious shopper, you don’t need to commit to only buying British unless you feel it’s something you can easily switch to. Start building the demand. Creating a voice of young, responsible and fashion conscious shoppers. Start being the reason we’re out of recession. Don’t rely on banks, the next big thing to hopefully come along or technology to start rebuilding the economy but to start thinking what is your actual skill, what can you contribute to our nation, what can you bring to make us stand out, be different and unique? Highly proficient is MS Office doesn’t need to be desirable skill. We really should change the way we do things. We’re just one country, one island, and in terms of BRIC nations and other manufacturing hubs, they won’t suffer without our business, they will evolve and move on – it’s time to start looking closer to home and looking after ourselves. 

Hoorah!

Andrea x

Made in Britain

Rather quietly I decided to embark on a quest to only buy British made clothing. It’s killer. Do you know how friggin’ hard it is to find clothes only manufactured in the UK.. yup bloody hard. Quietly also because I thought I’d fail. It all started when I went on a vintage spree with my sister back in March. We bought a ridiculous amount of stuff all second hand and cheap. And it got me thinking, I can dress fashionably and sustainable – really easily.

This really is Made in Britain AND affordable!
Image: topshop.com

Now I’ve always been an advocate for British manufacture and often got into debates about my views of the dark side of the fashion industry. I’ve often been quoted as saying ‘I want to get into the fashion industry to make a difference’ and I still do. I admire and I am inspired by the industry and I respect it – but there is a hell of a lot wrong with it too and I suppose I want to be a bit of a fashion crusader and promote good and best practice. I disagree with fast fashion and cheap clothes. I rather spend a little more to get something that lasts a bit longer. I believe you get what you pay for, and that couldn't be more of the case in fashion. I don’t want to be ‘in’ fashion for a week; I want to remain constantly stylish.

Many of my friends have wardrobes bulging with clothes and often forget what they even own. I am, or was, just as guilty of this. Yet I was a massive contradiction – although always believing in this and stating my morals of the industry – I too would buy into £3.99 vests from H&M and never looked at the label before purchase. I’m not sure when the epiphany was that made me decide to only buy British was but since I’ve felt nothing but a twang of guilt for clothes which aren’t manufactured in the UK.

I’ve turned into my own worst enemy and all righteous and stuff and riddled with guilt for liking stuff manufactured in Romania and China. So basically, I haven’t been shopping in months. Well, that’s not completely true. I’m still happy to buy second hand regardless of where it’s made and I have bought a few new things since March too! Apparently you can buy British on the high street – just not very much.

My favourite buy came in June when I was in Whitstable for a weekend away. I had seen this dress in River Island. It was a nice cut and fit and most importantly it was Made in Britain! Winner! And only £30. I took a chance hoping that it’d be in the Canterbury store and the last one in my size was there – fate! Since I have discover River Island do quite a bit of stuff Made in Britain. Mainly simple cuts and printed fabrics but that’s brilliant really it makes me want to shop there again! And for my birthday I asked for this skirt and I love it!!

I also discovered Oh My Love, a label I had no idea about – but I stumbled across them during a sample sale. It’s a bit hit and miss as to whether they manufacture it all in Britain (I did e-mail them to ask – but they never replied!) but I have discovered if in the bio it says “Made With Love in East London” it’s a good’n! So far I’ve bought this and this and a couple of things they only had at the sample sale.

Finally, I am massively lusting over the Topshop’s Made in Britain range. It’s perfect; it’s everything I want and more; and it is expensive. I am yet to take the plunge even though the clothes are beautiful. And timeless. And I’d wear them forever (exaggerating and justifying obvs!). Top of my wish list are this, this!

I’ve also been discovering small, young and independent labels – places like Etsy and Big Cartel offer the chance for young designers to sell their goods online and affordably and the vast majority of them are manufactured here, in their bedrooms at 2am in the morning (or y’know 3pm in the arvo, no insinuating illegal stuff or anything!) and maybe this is exactly who I should be spending my money with, not the big high street stores doing it to look good and PR – whilst still happily manufacturing the vast majority of their products in Bangladesh.

There are the classics which are still made here like Barbour jackets and the odd Mulberry Bayswater (which is still top of my made in Brit list ahem) but what I’ve mostly struggled with are shoes and undies. Portas piped up a bit and made a good three part documentary about making kecks in the UK and I praise her for highlighting this! But where do you buy a British made bra? I can’t seem to find the store which Underworld on Coronation Street supplies. Secondly, shoes! I love shoes I own probably dozens of pairs. Brogues make me weak, in glitter and patent and leather and print -  I love them. I can’t afford Churches. Maybe one day. But where else make affordable shoes? And sandals? Luckily without a summer I’ve survived w/o investing in a pair and managed to survive on old battered pairs.  I’ve had to bend the rules a tad too, for example, Zara is Spanish. So should I support their economy and only buy Spanish made goods from them and so on and so forth? I can’t find a basic tee to save my life! Where in the UK manufacture sweatshirts and tee’s? How do I get around that one? I’ve toyed with American Apparel but can I justify using them? I mean they freely promote sweatshop free manufacture. But they still have to ship in. Nightmare.

Finally, and this is the biggest problem. Apart from Topshop’s specific collection and the bit on Oh My Love – no brands actually freely admit where they manufacture garments in online descriptions. I literally cannot internet shop! It’s funny how they have to put it on clothing labels but there is clearly no requirement to list it on t’internet. I know that the vast majority of people wouldn’t check the labels of the garment before buying something in store but I do and it’s has massively changed the way in which I shop. I would like to think if it’s clearly marked on a garment people would be able to make an informed judgement on what they are buying – and therefore if it’s listed online the same would apply – but I’m being self-righteous and annoying myself again – no one else shops like that – and that’s ok, but I really think that if it’s on the label of the garment it should be on the listing of the garment online – it’s only fair.

Do you think you could only buy British? Would you even want to try? Or more importantly do you know any brands which are UK manufactures or carry UK manufactured goods – if you do – please let me know. It would be great to be able to list them all together!

Andrea x